Tamagoyaki—a Japanese rolled omelet traditionally flavored with soy sauce, mirin, and, depending on who you ask, dashi (a simple fish and kelp stock)—is notoriously difficult to make. In Jiro Dreams of Sushi, the 2013 documentary that follows revered sushi chef Jiro Ono, it’s mentioned that it takes the apprentices at his restaurant, Sukiyabashi Jiro, an average of 10 years to master the dish. (In one clip, an apprentice recalls how he was so happy he cried the first time one of his tamagoyakis met with Jiro’s approval.) Plus, you often need a special pan, called a makiyakinabe, to cook it. So it’s a whole thing!
Unless you simplify it, like Extra Crispy‘s Kat Kinsman did, in a recipe taken from the “breakfast, brunch, and morning culture” site’s new book Breakfast: The Most Important Book About the Best Meal of the Day ($16.51 at Amazon.com). In the latest episode of Mad Genius Tips, Kinsman shows Food & Wine‘s Justin Chapple how to make “an homage” to tamagoyaki (a.k.a. it’s not quite authentic, but it’s definitely delicious) using a dozen eggs, soy creamer (which brings “some fantastic body”), dashi (or, as Kinsman calls it, “fish tea”), mirin, white soy, and—plot twist!—light brown sugar. The mix gets aerated with an immersion blender, popped in the fridge overnight, stirred lightly, and strained over a nine-by-nine baking pan lined with parchment paper (a decent dupe for the makiyakinabe). Then it’s popped in the oven—first on 300, then on 200—taken out, and cut into slices.
It’s a great recipe to have on hand for two reasons (besides the light, creamy texture and addictive, sweet-meets-savory taste). One, you can prep it the night before if you’re having guests for brunch. And two, you can wrap up the extra slices, stick them in the fridge, and eat them as snacks throughout the week.
Of course, this isn’t the only killer breakfast recipe in Extra Crispy’s new book. Pick up a copy to discover exciting new ingredients, essential how-tos, and the secrets to making Entenmann’s Cake Doughnuts and Taco Bell Crunchwraps at home.
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